Building Wireframes - Part 3b - Lights - LEDs
DISCLAIMER - The information presented here is solely my opinion. It is only one method of accomplishing the task, not the only way. Please use all necessary safety precautions and equipment before attempting anything presented here. I do not claim any special expertise nor do I consider myself as an expert. You have been cautioned.
If the frame color is to remain white, I use light strings with white wire, if you only have green wire for a white frame, that's OK at this point. If the frame is painted colors, then it doesn't matter, as I'll explain in the "Final Paint" topic.
First thing to do is try to determine how many lights the frame will need, and where on the frame the "male" plug will be, usually on the bottom.
Laying the frame down flat on the table, I usually just lay some lights loosely along the frame, trying to get an idea of the wiring path that will work best for that frame, and that particular strand of lights (ie the spacing between the bulbs 2" 3" 4" etc). With my own designs, sometimes I'll start with the middle of a string at the top of frame, and work my way down each side.
I almost always use clips for attaching the lights to the wireframes, so much quicker and neater. Also, as a matter of personal preference, I like to have the bulbs as close together as possible, tip to bottom. I also have found, that keeping all the bulb tips pointed up as much as possible, seems to reduce any GFCI trips and in my opinion just looks better.
With the way I wrap the lights, generally a 50 count string of M6 LEDs that is 17 feet long with a 4" bulb spacing, will cover approx 10 feet of lighted frame length.
After deciding on the starting point, time to start wrapping. I find it easier to attach the clip to the bulb base first, then clip to the frame. I then wrap the wire around the frame as many times and as tight as I can. Sometimes it helps to adjust the "twist" in the wire some, either twisting it tighter or sometimes untwisting it some. The point is for the bulb to end up "in line" with the preceding bulb, and the bulbs as close together as possible along the frame.
Sometimes when using lights with a 4" spacing between the bulbs, I just can't twist or wrap it tight enough to achieve the close bulb spacing that I prefer. In that case, I'll gather the excess wire on the backside of the frame, and zip tie it tightly.
If the light string has a "female" socket, I usually cut it off, use liquid tape and cover with a piece of heat shrink tubing. Unless I'm plugging in additional strings to make up the length of lights needed. However, normally, I cut off the male and female plugs and splice the wires together, using Liquid Tape and heat shrink tubing.
Sometimes I might use a string of 50 lights and a string of 35 lights, or 100 plus a 35, etc to keep from having a 'bunch" of lights left over, or coming up a few lights short..
I prefer to use M6 size FWR LEDs from Paul Sessell at Creative Display. (See resources page)
Now, if you used white wire in a white frame, you are DONE !!
Otherwise continue to the next section "Final Paint"
For a multicolor frame, I almost always use either Warm White or Cool White LEDs, and use color caps or Stained Glass Paint on the bulbs that are to be colored.
If the frame color design will accomadate a sting of 50 count single color LEDs, then of course I'll use them. I try to keep 50 ct M6 LEDs in Blue, Green, Red, Yellow, Cool White and Warm White in inventory at all times, as I usually build wireframes in spring and early summer.
Note: If your frame is to be animated, now is the time to plan for the individual light circuits to be controlled.
Strobe Lights: If you are including strobe lights, plan for the wiring now. (Yes, some of my frames contain strobes)
Note: If you will be adding coro to your frame, trace it out prior to installing the lights - just don't attach it yet
If using coro, zip tie it to your frame now
