Tools Recommended to Complete Assembly
□ Pencil type soldering iron (30-40 Watts) or a soldering station.
□ Roll of fine 60/40 solder (less than .045” diameter)
□ Sensitive voltmeter or DMM (which is great for diagnostics)
□ Pair of flush-cut side cutters.
This is the Schematic of the printed circuit board for the Mighty Mini
Schematic by Frank Kostyun
Most of these assembly instructions are taken verbatim from the instructions published by Frank Kostyun (after all, he is smarter then me!)
The printed circuit board ver 1.4
Be sure you have the following parts properly separated and available
( 2 ) 100 ohm resistors - Brown Black Brown
( 6 ) 56 ohm resistors - Green Blue Black
( 16 ) Red LEDs
( 12 ) Green LEDs
( 12 ) Blue LEDs
( 6 ) Cool White LEDs
( 6 ) Warm White LEDs
( 1 ) 4 X 2 Pin Screw Terminal
For soldering the resistors, I used a 1/64 tip and some .015 dia. 62/36/2 solder. For me, and my old eyes, the solder pads for the resistors are small.
For the LEDs I used a 1/32 tip with .032 dia solder.
I set the solder station at 650 degrees F
Since it had been several years from my last serious project, I kept the LED Orientation diagram handy, and also retested each LED before installing on the board.
The cathode (or short lead) goes in the hole with the square pad. Some of my LEDs had leads of almost equal length, so just after testing, I cliped the cathode lead just a little bit shorter, to make it readily apparent in a final check from the back of the board prior to soldering.
With all the resistors and LEDs soldered in place, time to solder the terminal blocks to the board. Note: the terminal blocks are mounted on the opposite side of the board then the other parts.
At this time, I powered up each color with 24 volts to DC to make sure I had done everything correctly.